Padel Court Installation Construction Guide: From Foundation to...

By PeakPadel Engineering Team · Published July 2026 · 12 min read

Pre-Installation Planning: What to Prepare Before Delivery

Before the container arrives at your site, several critical preparations must be in place. Rushing into installation without these steps is the leading cause of construction delays, cost overruns, and long-term structural problems.

Site Requirements at a Glance

Parameter	Requirement	Why It Matters
Site footprint	Minimum 22m × 12m (doubles court: 20m × 10m)	Provides 1m working clearance on all sides for assembly
Ground slope	< 1% gradient across the entire footprint	Steeper slopes require costly retaining walls or regrading
Soil bearing capacity	≥ 150 kPa (kilopascals)	Soft soils (clay, peat) require deeper footings or soil replacement
Underground utilities	None within the footprint	Water, gas, or electrical lines must be relocated before excavation
Drainage	Surface water must drain away from the court	Standing water under the slab causes frost heave and foundation cracking
Access for delivery	Truck access within 20m of the site	Long manual carrying of glass panels increases breakage risk
Power supply	220V / 380V available on site	Required for concrete mixer, power tools, and lighting testing

Foundation Drawings — Your Blueprint

PeakPadel provides customized foundation drawings for every order. These drawings specify:

• Exact anchor bolt positions — typically 16-20 embedded bolts around the perimeter
• Concrete grade recommendation — usually C25/30 or equivalent
• Slab thickness — 150mm for standard courts, 200mm for heavy-use commercial facilities
• Reinforcement layout — rebar grid spacing and diameter
• Drainage slope specification — 0.5-1% gradient toward designated drainage points
• Electrical conduit layout — underground routing for lighting cables

Phase 1: Site Preparation & Foundation Pouring (Days 1-2)

The foundation is the single most important phase of padel court construction. A 5mm error in slab flatness translates to visible glass panel misalignment and door binding issues that are extremely difficult to correct later.

Step-by-Step Foundation Process

Step 1: Clear and Excavate
Remove all vegetation, topsoil, and organic material to a depth of 200-300mm across the entire 22m × 12m footprint. Organic material decomposes over time, creating voids under the slab.

Step 2: Compact the Subgrade
Compact the exposed subgrade using a vibrating plate compactor. Make at least 3 passes in perpendicular directions. For clay soils, consider a 100mm layer of compacted gravel (crushed stone, 20-40mm) as a capillary break to prevent moisture wicking.

Step 3: Install Formwork
Set wooden or metal formwork to define the slab perimeter. The top edge of the formwork is your finished floor level. Check all four corners with a laser level — the tolerance is ±3mm across the diagonal (approximately 23.32m for a doubles court).

Step 4: Place Reinforcement & Embed Anchors
Lay rebar mesh according to the foundation drawing. Position anchor bolts at the exact locations specified in the drawing. Anchor bolts must be set in concrete while it is wet — they cannot be drilled and epoxied after curing without compromising accuracy. Use a plywood template to hold bolt positions during the pour.

Step 5: Pour and Finish Concrete
Pour C25/30 concrete to the specified thickness. Use a vibrating screed to consolidate the concrete and remove air pockets. Float and trowel the surface to achieve the required flatness. For outdoor courts, a light broom finish provides slip resistance without affecting ball roll.

Step 6: Cure
Cover the slab with wet burlap or apply a curing compound. Keep the concrete continuously moist for 7 days. Do not begin steel assembly until the concrete has achieved a minimum of 70% design strength (typically 7 days in normal weather, longer in cold conditions).

Phase 2: Steel Frame Assembly (Days 3-4)

With the foundation cured, steel frame assembly begins. This is the phase where pre-fabricated components come together to form the skeleton of the court.

Assembly Sequence

Step 1: Inventory Check
Unpack and lay out all components. Verify quantities against the packing list. PeakPadel ships every bolt, bracket, and panel labeled and grouped by assembly zone. Missing or damaged items should be reported immediately — do not substitute hardware.

Step 2: Install Corner Posts
Stand the four corner posts onto their anchor bolts. Hand-tighten nuts initially; do not torque until the entire frame is assembled. Use a spirit level on two adjacent faces of each post. If a post is out of plumb, place shims under the base plate — never bend the bolt or slot the base plate hole.

Step 3: Connect Crossbeams
Bolt horizontal crossbeams between corner posts at the specified heights. PeakPadel's QF/PRO models use 100×50×3mm profiles for crossbeams. All connections use SUS304 stainless steel bolts with nylon lock nuts — do not substitute with hardware store fasteners.

Step 4: Intermediate Posts & Fence Frames
Install intermediate vertical posts along each side wall. Attach fence frame sections between posts. For models with separate fence frames (Suspension, Classic), ensure the 50×30×2mm frames are square before tightening all connections.

Step 5: Torque and Verify
Starting from the corners and working inward, torque all bolts to specification. Re-check all posts for plumb. Re-check frame diagonal measurements — the difference between the two diagonals should be less than 10mm. Adjust by loosening and re-torquing as needed.

Phase 3: Glass Panel Installation (Day 5)

Glass panels are the heaviest and most delicate components. A single 12mm tempered glass panel for a padel court weighs approximately 35-45 kg (per m²) — roughly 90-110 kg for a standard 2m × 1m panel. Two-person lifting is mandatory.

Glass Handling Protocol

• Always use suction cup lifters rated for the panel weight. Two lifters per panel minimum.
• Never carry glass by the edges alone — tempered glass is strong on the face but vulnerable to edge impacts.
• Lay panels on their edges on a padded A-frame rack when staging before installation. Never lay glass flat on the ground.
• Inspect every panel for edge chips or surface scratches before lifting into position. Damaged tempered glass can spontaneously shatter days or weeks after installation.
• Wear cut-resistant gloves and safety glasses during the entire glass phase.

Installation Sequence

Step 1: Install Rubber Gaskets
Slide rubber EPDM gaskets into the frame channels where glass panels will sit. Gaskets serve three functions: they cushion the glass against the steel frame, absorb vibration from ball impacts, and create a water seal that prevents moisture from pooling in the frame channels.

Step 2: Lift and Place Panels
With two workers, lift each glass panel using suction cups. Guide the bottom edge into the lower frame channel, then tilt the panel upright into its vertical position. The panel should seat fully into the gasket-lined channel.

Step 3: Install Clamping Brackets
Secure each panel with the supplied clamping brackets at the top and, depending on the court model, along the vertical edges. Tighten bracket bolts evenly — alternate between bracket positions to avoid introducing point stress on the glass.

Step 4: Verify Alignment
Run a straight edge across adjacent glass panels. The gap between panels should be uniform (typically 3-5mm) and the panel faces should be flush. Adjust bracket tension to correct minor misalignments.

Phase 4: Turf Laying & Finishing (Day 6)

Artificial turf transforms the concrete slab into a playable surface. Proper installation ensures consistent ball bounce, adequate drainage, and a professional appearance.

Turf Installation Steps

Step 1: Clean and Dry the Slab
Sweep and, if needed, pressure-wash the concrete slab. The surface must be completely dry and free of debris before turf is laid. Any debris trapped under the turf creates visible bumps that affect ball roll.

Step 2: Roll Out the Turf
Standard padel court turf is supplied in rolls covering the full 20m × 10m playing area (210m²). Roll out the turf from one end to the other. Allow the turf to relax for 1-2 hours before trimming — this lets the backing acclimatize and reduces the risk of buckling on hot days.

Step 3: Trim to Fit
Using a sharp utility knife, trim the turf precisely along the court perimeter and around the post bases. Cut from the backing side for cleanest results. Leave 2-3mm of clearance at edges to allow for thermal expansion — turf can expand noticeably in direct sunlight.

Step 4: Seam Joining (If Multiple Rolls)
If your court uses multiple turf rolls, join the seams with specialized turf seam tape and adhesive. Align the pile direction on both rolls before joining — mismatched pile direction is permanently visible. Allow adhesive to cure per manufacturer's instructions before proceeding.

Step 5: Apply Infill Sand
Spread kiln-dried silica sand evenly across the turf surface using a drop spreader. The sand fills the spaces between turf fibers, keeping them upright for consistent ball contact. Typical application rate: 4-6 kg/m². After spreading, brush the turf with a powered turf brush or stiff broom in multiple directions to work the sand into the pile. Repeat the brushing after 48 hours of use to achieve final sand settlement.

Step 6: Paint Court Lines
Mark and paint playing lines according to official padel court dimensions. Lines are 5cm wide, typically white or contrasting color to the turf. Use specialized turf paint — standard road-marking paint will degrade turf fibers.

Phase 5: Lighting, Fencing & Final Checks (Day 7)

Lighting Installation

PeakPadel courts use 8 × 200W IP66 LED floodlights mounted on dedicated light poles. The standard configuration places 4 lights per side (along the 20m length), angled to minimize glare and shadows:

• Light pole height: 6-8m (varies by court model). Higher poles provide better light uniformity but require stronger foundations.
• Typical lux level at playing surface: 400-500 lux for recreational play, 600-800 lux for tournament standard.
• All wiring must be installed by a licensed electrician per local electrical codes. Underground conduit should have been placed during Phase 1.
• Test all fixtures before final electrical sign-off. Replace any non-functioning units immediately.

Top Fencing & Net Installation

• Install the 1m metal mesh fencing above the 3m walls around the entire court perimeter.
• Mount the central net at regulation height: 0.88m in the center, rising to 0.92m at the posts.
• Net posts are bolted to embedded anchors in the foundation. Verify post spacing (10m center-to-center for doubles court).

Final Inspection Checklist

1. All bolts torqued: Walk the entire structure and check every visible bolt. A loose bolt under impact load will work itself looser and eventually fail.
2. Glass panels secure: Push firmly on each glass panel. There should be no movement, rattle, or shifting.
3. Turf seams flat: Walk every seam. Any raised edge is a trip hazard.
4. Gates function smoothly: Open and close all court access gates. They should swing freely without binding.
5. Drainage test: Pour water along the court perimeter and verify it drains away from the slab, not toward it.
6. Light uniformity: Turn on all lights after dark and inspect for dark spots or excessive glare from any playing position.
7. Sharp edge check: Run your hand along every accessible steel edge. Any burr or sharp corner must be filed smooth.

Complete Tool & Material Checklist

Category	Item	Quantity / Notes
Surveying	Laser level, measuring tape (30m), string line, marking paint	Essential for accurate layout
Concrete	Concrete mixer (or ready-mix truck), vibrating screed, trowel, float	Ready-mix recommended for full slab
Lifting	Suction cup lifters (2), glass A-frame rack, pallet jack or forklift	Forklift strongly recommended for unloading container
Assembly	Socket wrench set (10-24mm), torque wrench, impact driver, electric drill	Two sets for parallel work
Alignment	Spirit levels (600mm and 1200mm), plumb bob, straight edge (2m)	Check posts and glass alignment
Turf	Utility knife (with spare blades), turf seam tape & adhesive, drop spreader, power brush	Sharp blades are essential — replace frequently
Safety	Hard hats, safety glasses, cut-resistant gloves, steel-toe boots, first aid kit	Mandatory for the entire crew
Electrical	Licensed electrician, conduit, wiring, circuit breakers, light fixtures	Do not attempt DIY electrical work
Consumables	Shims (steel, various thicknesses), silicone sealant, thread-locking compound, touch-up paint	For fine adjustments and finishing

5 Common Installation Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Mistake 1: Pouring the Slab Before Verifying Anchor Bolt Positions

The problem: Anchor bolts embedded in the wrong positions cannot be moved after concrete cures. Misaligned bolts mean the steel frame will not fit, requiring expensive concrete cutting and re-pouring.

The fix: Use a plywood template with pre-drilled holes matching the anchor bolt layout. Verify template position with a total station or laser before the concrete pour. Double-check all measurements while the concrete is still wet — you have approximately 2-3 hours of working time after pouring.

Mistake 2: Rushing the Concrete Cure

The problem: Starting steel assembly on concrete that has not reached 70% design strength risks anchor bolt pullout and slab edge cracking under bolt torque loads. In hot, dry weather, rapid surface drying also causes shrinkage cracks.

The fix: Allow a minimum of 7 days of moist curing. In temperatures below 10°C, extend to 10-14 days. Use a concrete testing hammer (Schmidt hammer) to verify strength before proceeding if in doubt.

Mistake 3: Tightening Bolts Out of Sequence

The problem: Tightening bolts as you go — rather than assembling the entire frame first — locks in misalignments that compound across the structure. The result is a frame that is visibly out of square and glass panels that will not seat properly.

The fix: Assemble the complete frame with bolts hand-tight only. Square the frame by measuring and adjusting the diagonals. Only then torque all bolts to specification, working from the center outward in a crossing pattern.

Mistake 4: Installing Glass Without Gaskets

The problem: Glass-to-steel contact creates concentrated stress points. The first hard ball impact at that contact point can initiate a crack or cause spontaneous tempered glass failure. Without gaskets, water also enters the frame channels freely, accelerating internal corrosion.

The fix: Every PeakPadel court kit includes EPDM rubber gaskets pre-cut to length. They must be installed in every frame channel before any glass panel is lifted. Inspect gaskets for proper seating before clamping brackets are tightened.

Mistake 5: Skipping the Infill Sand on Turf

The problem: Without sand infill, turf fibers lay flat within weeks of use. The ball rolls inconsistently, players slip more easily, and the turf wears out 2-3 times faster. The surface also becomes dangerously hot in direct sun because the fibers are not shaded by sand.

The fix: Apply silica sand at 4-6 kg/m² immediately after turf installation. Brush thoroughly. Re-brush after 48 hours of use. Top up sand annually in high-traffic areas (behind the service line and around the net).

Timeline Summary

Phase	Duration	Crew Size	Key Deliverable
Pre-Installation Planning	2-4 weeks before delivery	1 (project manager)	Foundation drawings reviewed with local contractor
1. Foundation	2 days + 7-10 days cure	3-4 (concrete crew)	Cured, level slab with embedded anchors
2. Steel Frame	2 days	3 (assembly crew)	Squared, torqued steel framework
3. Glass Panels	1 day	3 (assembly crew)	All panels seated in gaskets, clamped
4. Turf & Finishing	1 day	2-3	Turf laid, sanded, lines painted
5. Lighting & Final Checks	1 day	2 + electrician	Court ready for play
Total On-Site Work	5-7 working days	3-person core crew	Fully installed, playable court